Parts List
The first thing you will need is the following parts :
1 @ Synthetic Car Chamois [Membrane Filter]
1 @ 5mm x 160mm x 460mm PVC Pipe [Cylinder ]
4 @ 10mm x 20mm x 420mm Nylon Strip [Baffle Guides ]
2 @ 5mm x 150 mm x 420mm Acrylic or Nylon Sheet [Baffle Plates]
2 @ 1.5mm x 50mm x 350 Stainless Steel Sheet (316) [Electrodes]
1 @ 20mm x 151mm dia Nylon Block [Bottom End Cap]
2 @ 10mm dia pipe fittings.(optional) [Outlets]
1 @ Small Tube of Silicon Sealant
2 @ 5 mm x 16 mm Stainless Nut/Bolt [Electrode Fixing]
26 @ 16mm x 2.5mm(4g) Screws [Fixing Screws ]
1 @ 1.5mm drill bit
1 @ 5mm drill bit
1 @ 6-10mm drill bit
Cutting/Machining
The Materials :
1. [Baffle Plates]
Cut the baffle plate material to the
correct size: 2 @ 5mm x 150 mm x 420mm . Once you have both baffles cut
neatly to the same size, you will then have to drill a multiple of
6-10mm holes in a matrix pattern down the two baffles plates.(see
figure 3) This is important as this is where the
12v electric positive and negative charge travels through the chamois
membrane filter to separate the water into acid/alkaline. Do not drill
these holes too near the edge of the baffle guides or near the bottom
end cap, as the water will escape around the edges an allow the water to
mix in together again. We do not want the water to mix in together at
any stage, as we wish for the water to stay separated in both sides of
the charger container. It's a good idea to leave a safety margin of at
least 30mm around the edge before any holes are drilled. The matrix can
be drilled with 5 columns of 18 rows by 8mm holes, that's around 90
holes in all. Make sure you clamp both baffle plates together neatly
before drilling, and that you drill both plates identically at the same
time. Over lapping or out of alignment holes may not allow uniform
charge to go through the water.
Handy hint : on the back of most
contact paper or wall paper there is a ruled 20mm x 20mm ink printed
grid. Cut to size a piece of this paper to use as a grid. Tape this grid
to the baffles before drilling, and then drill the intersections of
these lines. You may need to lightly centre punch these intersection
points first.
2. [Baffle Plate Guides]
If you have the plastic baffle guides
material in one large piece then you will need to cut this block of
material into 4 @10mm x 20mm x 420mm plastic strips (see
figure 3.)Use a power or hand saw to get the
straightest and cleanest cut you can. You will need you use a power or
hand plane to shave one edge/corner off the entire length of these
baffle guides so that the guides sit flush with the main
cylinder/container wall, while also sitting flush with the baffle plate.
(see figure 6). To do this
simply place the baffle guides along the edge of the baffle plate
material and clamp in between two planks of wood in a vice or similar.
Using scrap piece of the 160mm PVC at approximately 10mm wide, cut this
scrap piece in half across the diameter. You will be using this as a
template as you plane down the curve along the full length of the baffle
guide edges. (see figure 2). Plane
a little off the edge each time while placing the scrap template on the
cut edge to see if you have the curve correct. Do not remove to much off
the edges else your baffle guide will leak water around the edge, as it
won't clamp the baffle plates tight inside the finished unit. Repeat the
above with all four baffle guides. You will have to alternate from side
to side for the correct plane angle. Try not to loose count of each
plane cut with each side.
Alternative
