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Vandegraff Motor

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Vandegraff 

Motor Mounting & Bottom Electrode

Parts list:

bullet1 @ electrical motor 12 - 240 volt.

 

Depending on the motor you chose you can have from a 12V ac/dc all the way up to mains powered 240Vac motor to run on your vandegraff generator. The motor you choose is your choice and won't make a lot of difference to the operations of the machine. I used a variable 240Vac motor from an old vacuum cleaner. Vandegraff Box viewThe motor chosen was a series wound motor, an is far too fast for the VG machine. This motor will blow the belt and rollers apart if it where left to run out to full speed. If you get a series would motor be sure to limit the maximum speed of the motor. Caution: if you are not sure about wiring a mains powered motor then have some one with electrical experience help you wire the motor from the mains. There is no set mounting instructions or key dimensions for mounting the motor. Just try to centre the bottom roller over the mid point of the main centre tube. View down through the top of the tube to be certain you have the bottom roller centre most under the tube. You may have to build a special mounting frame or add packing under the motor to get the required distance from the back panel to the roller centre position. You may also move the actual wooden back panel location in further toward the centre to better mount the motor. I have mounted my motor from on the back panel because this allows for more adjustment to the belt. If I break the belt I can join it again and move the motor up to accommodate the loss in belt length.  You may decide to mount the motor down on the bottom panel. That is quite ok, but you will have to add packing under the motor to get the belt tension correct. The top roller will only adjust to a set length. So you will need to move the motor to get any additional adjustment to the belt tension. Once you have your motor mounted, your vandegraff unit may look something like figure 25.

Bottom Comb/Electrode

The bottom comb/electrode construction is very similar to the top electrode. Once again construct the comb/electrode from 25mm x 25mm x 0.1 shim steel. Cut sharp points into the shim steel. Pop rivet the shim steel electrode onto a 30mm x 60mm piece of tin. You can then pop rivet this piece of tin an electrode onto the main motor or motor mount. (see figure 26) You can then manually bend the tin in an out to allow for close proximity adjustments and fine tuning to the belt electrode distance. Only trial and error can get this adjustment to the best position. Remember the closer you get the comb/electrode to the belt, the better the possible potential available to the sphere condenser. I chose to mount the comb/electrode directly onto the motor. By doing this you eliminate the need to supply an earth or ground wire to the electrode. Bottom electrode & Motor view If you choose to mount the electrode from the bottom of the wooden frame then you will need to add a wire to supply the ground potential to the electrode. You can terminate this ground wire back onto the motor if you so choose.

 

 

 

 

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